If you’ve ever cleaned out your wardrobe or donated a bag of second-hand clothes, then you are part of a larger movement, one that’s quietly transforming how the fashion industry manages its waste. Fast fashion has long been on a relentless surge, producing cheap garments at a rapid pace, encouraging high consumption and swift disposal. The result? Mountains of textile waste, overflowing landfills, blocked drainage systems, and polluted rivers, especially in Africa.

Globally, only about 12% of textiles are recycled, while the rest ends up in dumps, rivers, or incinerators. In East Africa, the problem is exacerbated by large imports of used clothing, weak waste infrastructure, and limited local systems for textile recycling and recovery. It’s causing environmental stress and becoming a social burden.

However, here’s hopeful news: entrepreneurs and civil society groups are stepping up with creative, community-focused solutions. In Kenya and Nigeria, for instance, Africa Collect Textiles (ACT) has established a robust system for collecting, sorting, and upcycling used clothes and footwear. Through more than 60 drop-off points, ACT allows residents, businesses, and organisations to donate used textiles, which are then sorted; wearable items are redistributed, while those beyond repair are transformed into practical everyday items like rugs, mats, bags, backpacks, and even toys. Anything that cannot be reused is responsibly recycled, reducing landfill waste and creating income for local artisans in the process. ACT has created green jobs and improved livelihood opportunities for women’s groups, especially in vulnerable communities, by providing access to second-hand stock (mitumba) markets and upcycled products for sale.

The magic lies in transforming a waste issue into a circular economy opportunity, a model where textiles are kept in use as long as possible, reused, and recycled, rather than discarded after a single season.

Across the globe, similar innovators are also making waves. In India, one inventive startup is transforming textile waste, such as factory offcuts and discarded T-shirts, into mannequins. Instead of using traditional plastic or fibreglass, they shred waste fabric into pulp, mix it with plant-based, non-toxic adhesives, mould it into body forms, and cure them under the sun with minimal energy. Through this process, a single mannequin can be made from around 100 old T-shirts’ worth of textile waste, offering a low-impact, biodegradable alternative to conventional materials.

There are also inspiring examples from elsewhere. In Ghana, the Or Foundation helps rescue unsellable second-hand clothing from large markets, working directly with designers to upcycle them into new garments, accessories, and home décor items. This approach not only keeps textiles out of landfills but also empowers local makers and design talent.

There’s also genuine potential for local value creation. When old clothes are transformed into new items, the result is more than just environmentally friendly; it’s also socially beneficial. Artisans develop new skills, women’s cooperatives generate income, and small businesses establish themselves. This helps to narrow the gap between informal “mitumba” trade and formal green economy opportunities.

Consumers also have influence. Small habits can create a major impact: choosing clothing made from natural or recycled fibres, buying less but better, mending or repurposing old garments, or donating to reputable recycling schemes. Each donation or swap helps reduce the demand for new textile production, cut waste, and promote sustainable practices.

Partnerships are also critical. The circular textile economy thrives when brands, recyclers, NGOs, governments, and communities collaborate. Producers can design with end-of-life recovery in mind, making clothes easier to repair or recycle, while local enterprises collect, sort, and upcycle. Together, these actors can co-create a system that keeps discarded fabrics flowing back into use—and out of the environment.

Ultimately, converting textile waste into value is more than just a technical solution; it’s a shift in mindset. It encourages us to see our wardrobes as more than disposable. When communities across East Africa participate in clothing drives, clothes swaps, repair workshops, and textile recycling initiatives, they help rewrite the story of fast fashion, from one of overconsumption and waste to one of resourcefulness, sustainability, and dignity.